I spent February in Brazil — mostly Rio Di Jienero. In the second half of this blog, I will talk about my big takeaway… realizing how much I take for granted in the U.S!
However, I'll start out telling you about my adventures, and my herculean efforts to find healthy vegan food in a country that loves meat and white flour products!
(Note: I typed this up from a Brazilian computer, and some of the keys were different. So please forgive any typos!
FINDING HEALTHY VEGAN FOOD IS TOUGH!
You may already know that I eat organic, free range eggs and goat yogurt. However, when I eat out, I always say I am vegan.
That´s because restaurants almost never use organic, free range eggs or dairy products. So I remained vegan while traveling in Brazil.
After arriving, I took a bus from Rio de Jienero to the World Rainbow Gathering, which was near Santa Marta .
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rainbow_Gathering
On the way, most of the food was very bad — tons of meat and sugary white flour products. Luckily, I was able to get a bowl of black beans at one pit stop. The counter lady was in disbelief… ¨What? You want ONLY beans?¨
Yes I did. I paid 5 reals (about $3 US). I thought this was an OK price. But since a full plate of rice, beans, and pork was 10 reals, my friend Clara told me I paid too much. So in Portugese, I went to the counter lady and very humbly asked ¨For 5 reals, can I have a little more?¨
At first she said no, but with some coaxing from my Clara, she gave me another bowl without charge!
At another pit stop, there was a decent salad bar. I also bought a bag of apples.
Once we arrived at the Gathering, all of the meals were vegan. There was even a circle of raw fooders eating mostly fruits and veggies each day.
Getting back to Rio was a bigger ordeal. Instead of taking a direct bus, I took a bus to a small town called Ibiterama, then waited 8 hours for the bus back to Rio. Luckily, there was a little fruit shop so I stocked up on apples, pears, and bananas. I also bought a bag of peanuts, just in case.
Despite the language barrier, I befriended the owner of a bar/restaurant. At dinner time, II explained that I wanted beans with no meat. He showed me what they had — there were about six choices at his buffet.
Among them, black beans, white rice, and some kind of pasta. There were also some colorful root veggies, but unfortunately they were mixed with meat!
Since I shun white flour and white rice, I just took a bowl of beans. He told me there was no need to pay, and even encouraged me to have a second bowl. I had also bought a jar of corn kernels at a nearby store. So together with the beans, that was my dinner.
Luckily, once I arrived in Rio I discovered two vegan restaurants with all-you-can-eat lunch buffets for 20 reals ($12 US).
http://www.vegetarianosocialclube.com.br/
http://www.wikirio.com.br/Refeitório_Orgânico
The first one is good. The second is amazing (and all organic!)
On Friday I went out with friends to a place that serves traditional beans, rice, and pork. I explained that I only wanted beans and lettuce. Again, the server was so concerned that my dinner was insufficient, he gave me a second plate of beans and lettuce at no extra charge!
THE WORLD RAINBOW GATHERING
OK, so what did I like about Brazil? The music at the Rainbow Gathering was fantastic. A few hundred counter-culture people gathered in a forest, made meals together, co-created music and drum circles, and sang call-and-response kirtan songs.
I led three men's circles, teaching men tools to create deeper honesty and trust. Two men had huge breakthroughs.
I was also inspired to write songs but had no piano or keyboard with me. So for the first time in my life, I began writing (or channeling?) 4-line chants. For example, here are the words to one:
THANK YOU EARTH
You nourish me with your farms and orchards
You quench my thirst with your water spring
You shelter me with your bricks and mortar
Thank you earth for everything
BRAZILIAN PEOPLE ARE VERY TRUSTING AND TRUSTWORTHY
For example, at the Gathering I didn't have a clock or watch, and my cell phone battery was dead. Yet I needed a way to wake up on time, on the day of my departure.
So Renata, a woman I met there, loaned me her cell phone the night before. Since she didn't know me that well, she could have worried that I would forget to return it, or not find her tent the next morning. But she wasn't worried.
Likewise, over Facebook before leaving, I was introduced to Dani, a friend of a friend of a friend. She laid out 100 reals (about $60) to reserve my seat on the bus to the Gathering, even though we had never met. She had complete trust that I would repay her when I arrived.
And when she learned that I was going to pay 330 reals to stay in a hotel the first two nights, she insisted that I cancel the reservation, and found a friend for me to stay with… Thiago. He is a raw food chef who lives with his girlfriend Camila.
One week, Thiago was out of town so he loaned me his key. Not just a spare key, but HIS key.
When I took a bus from the small town of Santa Marta to Ibitirama, I didn´t know how much the fare would be and couldn’t speak Portugese. So I handed the man 30 reals — a ten and a twenty. He could have taken advantage, but instead give me back 23 reals.
While in Ibitirama, the pharmacy owner — who sold me the bus ticket back to Rio — came out of his pharmacy at 9:20pm to let me know I was standing on the wrong side of the street. Then he loaded my stuff into the bottom of the bus, once it arrived.
A week before leaving Brazil, I relocated from Thiago’s apartment to Sophia’s house, which was about an hour away. Sophia told me to take a taxi to a college near Thiago’s, and then catch a bus to her neighborhood.
When the taxi driver dropped me off, I asked a couple of security guards if they spoke English, but they did not. Despite the language barrier, I tried explaining that I needed the bus to “Rio das Pedras”.
Meanwhile, the taxi driver stuck around to make sure I wasn’t abandoned. He came out to speak with the guards, and then pulled out his cell phone to call Sophia for me.
Once he got on the phone with her, he realized that the correct bus stop was a few blocks away. He told me to get back in the taxi, and drove me there for no additional fee.
I was really taken with the fact that he didn’t just drop me off and leave. He spent an extra 5-10 minutes to make sure I got on the right bus, time he could’ve used to pick up another customer.
When I arrived in Rio das Pedras, I asked someone to point me to Florenta Condominium. I started walking with my large hiking backpack, two bags and a tent. I knew it wasn’t that far, but I wanted to grab a taxi anyway.
None came for about ten minutes. Finally a taxi showed up. I showed him the address. He gave me directions, indicating it was only a few blocks away, but I asked him to drive me there anyway.
When we got there, it looked wrong. It was a dirty dead end street. So I pulled out Sophia’s number and asked him to call her from his cell phone.
Once he spoke to her, he realized we were still a few blocks away. So he drove me to the right place. Incredibly, there was no charge for any of this. He never turned the meter on! But I was so thankful, I gave him 5 reals anyway.
THINGS I TAKE FOR GRANTED IN THE U.S.
Here are some things that are uncommon in Brazil –
Respect for women.
1) Together with four young women, I attended a very crowded street fair called "Carnival". Almost everyone was drinking, and many were smoking too.
More than once, I saw a drunk man grab a young woman by the arm, and not let go even when asked. At one point, I had to get in someone's face and tell him "NOT COOL!".
My friends tell me this is fairly common, even outside of "Carnival". When a woman tries pulling away, some guys get mad and curse at them or call them ugly.
One friend explained it this way… if you go out when it’s raining you know you are going to get wet. Likewise, if you go out to a street festival, you know men are going to do this.
2) I was shocked at a couple of markets, when I saw magazines like Playboy and Hustler at the point of purchase, even though there were children on line. I asked a female friend how she felt about this. She said ¨it´s always been like that, so I never gave it a second thought.¨
Respect for the legal drinking age. Although technically, there’s a legal drinking age in Brazil, kids of any age can buy alcohol at grocery stores. ID is not checked.
Respect for traffic lights. Brazilian taxi drivers (and maybe others too, I don’t know) run red lights all the time. And even when they know there’s a stop sign at the end of a block, they gun the engine up to 40mph, only to slam on the brakes just before the stop sign.
Whole Foods Market and other health food stores. It is hard to find health food and organic produce here… and when you do, it is very expensive.
Ethnic Restaurants. According to my Brazil friends, there are no Indian restaurants. Thai and Japanese restaurants are rare and expensive.
Netflix, Hulu.com, and streaming TV shows over the Internet. At home I watch TV shows online all the time. But due to licensing restrictions, these websites would not let me watch any streaming video in Brazil.
Dishwashers and dryers. In Brazil, most middle class folks have washing machines, but only rich people have dryers and dishwashers. This is the first time in my life I had to hang my wet clothes from a clothing rack with clothespins!
Reasonable prices on imported products. From dark chocolate bars to ipods to cars, imported products are very expensive in Brazil. Apparently, this is because of several taxes that are built into the prices. A dark chocolate bar here is 20 reals ($12 U.S.). And a Toyota Corolla is about 50,000 reals ($30,000 U.S.).
Reasonable prices on natural and health products like coconut soap, natural sunblock, maca powder etc. These things tend to cost more in Brazil. I paid 30 reals (about $18) for a very small container of sunblock and 10 reals (about $6) for one bar of coconut soap.
Hemp seeds, hemp protein powder, hemp shoes. These are not sold at all in Brazil.
Food dehydrators. These are not sold at all in Brazil.
OTHER OBSERVATIONS
These aren’t necessarily better or worse than the U.S., but still worth noting.
Brazil has free health care (paid for by tax dollars). But if you want to drop in, you have to wait on line for hours. And if you want an appointment, you might have to wait a few months.
Racism and white privilege. When I first arrived, I was excited to see that Brazil is a melting pot of people with many skin colors.
My friends explain it this way: the native people had medium brown skin. The original Portugese people had white skin. And their slaves had dark brown skin. So now, wherever you go, you see people of many colors.
However, people with dark brown people still work the lowest paying jobs in disproportionate numbers. And billboards and magazine covers portray almost exclusively white people.
Even more surprising, most of the women on magazine covers have blonde hair, even though very few Brazilian people have blonde hair!